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In 1739 Admiral Vernon captured the city of Puerto Bello in the Caribbean and this exploit gave rise to a number of commemorative names. One of these, Portobello Farm, in turn gave its name to Portobello Road, formerly the lane leading to it. The Market (known locally as `the lane') seems to have begun in the late 1860's or early 1870's at a time when much of the road had been built. This Market was one of several street Markets operating at the turn of the century; there were, for example, others in Kenley Street, Sirdar Road, Norland Road, Crescent Street and Golborne Road. An early reference in the vestry minutes (8 November 1893) mentions the obstruction caused by the size of the costermongers' stalls in Portobello Road.
Sir William Bull in `some recollections of Bayswater fifty years ago' (1923) says of the Market that `Carnival time was on Saturday nights in the winter, when it was thronged like a fair from Cornwall Road (now Westbourne Park Road) to Bolton Road (Portobello Street - now demolished). The people overflowed from the pavements so that the roadway was quite impassable for horse-traffic. On the left hand side (the east side) were costers' barrows, lighted by flaming naphtha lamps. In the side streets were side-shows.'
The Market was originally held on Saturdays only but in 1920 the local branch of the National Federation of Discharged and Demobilised Sailors and Soldiers attempted to get the Market extended to other days of the week. The scheme, however, was not approved (the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Council's Minutes 26 June 1920 and 21 September 1920) and a running battle began between the Council and street traders who continued to use the road during the week despite protests from local shop-keepers.
At this time the Council had no powers either to designate particular streets as Markets or to licence traders. A trader could be prosecuted for obstructing the highway, however, and this power could be used to exert some control. This unsatisfactory situation was remedied by the London County Council (General Powers) Act, 1927 which gave Metropolitan Borough Council powers to licence stationary street traders and to make Bye-laws controlling street trading. By this date a daily Market seems to have become acceptable in Portobello Road for early licence holders could trade between 8.00 a.m and 8.00 p.m on Mondays to Fridays and 8.00 a.m to 9.00 p.m on Saturdays. The east side of the road between Westbourne Grove and Wheatstone Road was designated for trading and a Street Market Inspector was appointed (the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Council's Minutes 20 December 1927).
The boundaries of today's Market are much the same, except that Saturday mornings see the addition of antique stalls in the stretch of road between Westbourne Grove and Chepstow villas. The Market falls roughly into three sections - in the south antiques and bric-a-brac; in the centre fruit and vegetables, with second-hand clothing, bedding and the like to the north. The trade in Antiques has grown markedly in the last few years and was stimulated by the temporary closure of the Caledonian Market in 1948.
In January 1961 there were some thirty-five antique dealers out of a total of 199 licence holders but this number has since increased. On Saturday mornings the southern half of the Market is a great attraction to tourists and it is packed with bargain hunters and onlookers. Although most people know Portobello Market for its antiques, the food section should not be forgotten. This, probably the oldest part, serves a real local need and trade here is brisk throughout the week.
The Portobello Road is also lined with shops on both sides, many of these being long established businesses, and is no average shopping street. At its best, it is a place of extraordinary vitality and a source of both enjoyment and fascination to its myriad users. This is more than can be said of the typical, sterile High Street. Portobello has a rich character, long in evolution, which provides a unique source of appeal to local shoppers, day-trippers and foreign visitors alike. This is a rare asset which cannot be artificially recreated.
This depth of personality, which makes Portobello so appealing, is difficult to define. The street Market is a major component; when the Market stalls are packed away, much of Portobello's vitality goes with them. But Portobello is much more than just a street Market. It also offers an unusually wide range of small, independent shops. Marks and Spencer and Burtons have long gone. Most of the other big High Street names have never been there. But the retailers who are on Portobello offer a splendid array of goods and services which complement the Market very well. There is plenty which is bizarre, to interest the day-tripper and the tourist, but also a large supermarket and a fine selection of small food shops for the local customer. This includes provision for particular nationalities and ethnic groups, often poorly served by the major multiples.
Neither is Portobello just about shopping. It is a residential area too. Several major housing estates sit next to Portobello Road, there are some attractive residential mews adjoining, and the street is surrounded by a densely-packed, enormously varied set of communities. There is no shortage of pubs and restaurants, so Portobello also serves as an entertainment area. It is also home to the famous electric cinema which currently closed for renovation. A number of cafes, offices and light industrial users are situated close to the street, particularly under the Westway. Finally, there are the schools and other major educational institutions to bear in mind. The bi-lingual Spanish school, for example, makes a further contribution to the lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere of the street.
Portobello offers shopping, leisure and entertainment in a human-scale environment. Unusually for a busy London shopping centre, there is little through traffic. Public transport connections are good, with three tube stations within walking distance of the street. The road line predates the surrounding urban area, curving gently downhill as it snakes northwards. Original Victorian Terraces remain along most of the length of the street. Not always well maintained, these nevertheless provide an intimate street-scape.
Most remain as single shop units, their independence often affirmed by the colour scheme of the facade, as well as by the shop signage. Even the few larger buildings tend to have a narrow frontage onto Portobello Road, remaining in tune with the small scale and intimate character of the place. Neither are there any large expanses of tarmac, such as car parks, to fragment the enclosed feel of the street. Space is at a premium and every last inch is used to advantage, particularly on the busiest Market days.
In short, Portobello has many strong features which contribute to its unique character. Its distinctive feel owes something not only to the buildings and street-scape, but also to the three sections of the Market, the kaleidoscopic range of shops and the variety of communities and individuals who choose to use the place. It is to this mix of features that Portobello owes its international reputation and its commercial success.
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